Optima Express – The Austria to Turkey train!

With a scheduled journey time of 31 hours and 31 minutes and around 1400km the Optima Express is the longest regularly scheduled train in Europe. It runs from Villach in the South of Austria to Edirne just over the border with Turkey. Covering 2 nights and a full day onboard the train is the longest regularly scheduled train in Europe in terms of time. So obviously that sounds like something that needs to be ridden! This is an account of our trip South in May 2025.

Booking tickets

The experience starts early with a website seemingly held together on a wing and a prayer (https://optimatours.de/en/home). With several of us trying even more bank cards and no luck. Eventually resorting to the bank transfer off and sending our money into thin air. And around a week later a PDF ticket finally arrived by email.

Check in and departure from Villach

And in preparation for the main event the 4 of us all met us in Villach having made our way there by train from elsewhere in Europe. Though engineering work on the Trauern tunnel meant some rail replacement buses we all arrived with several hours spare. Leaving time for a nice dinner at a restaurant before boarding the train and time to stock up on food and water before getting on the train. Make sure to check what is open in Villach, on the Saturday we were leaving almost every shop closed at 1800 earlier. And we gather it is worse on Sundays!

And once those matters were sorted it was time for the walk to the Optima Express departure point. The train does not leave from the main station but from another location a 25 minute walk east. The reason for this is that the Optima Express is a motor train – you can bring your car with you! And the ramps for that happens elsewhere. But you can travel without if you prefer.

The check in process was quick but the facilities pretty spartan. A quick look of tickets and passports. It was done in just a few minutes. Then we were assigned our couchette. There was a small waiting room, toilets and a few outside benches. But the vast majority of the 121 passengers onboard where just sitting around outside waiting for the train to pull in enjoying the sunset, passing trains and last of the cars being driven on.

Around 90 minutes before the scheduled departure time the car wagons were locked and taken away and our very long train joined together. And around 45 minutes they returned with our passenger carriages coupled together and we were allowed on. Watching people carry coolers and all sorts of other larger bits and bobs that they wanted to make their journey onboard as comfortable as possible!

And bang on the 2132 scheduled departure we were off! The 4 of us sitting in our couchette making our beds and watching the distance thunderstorms visible over the mountaintops. And talking about our plans for the journey ahead and time in Turkey. Including looking at what to do with our long wait in Edirne for a connecting train to Istanbul…

The first day onboard

The first night had gone largely as planned. Locomotive changes in Jesenice and Dobova overnight had gone without a hitch. And we had traveled overnight through Slovenia and Croatia largely on time and getting some good sleep. The Croatian border at Tovarnik was reached roughly on time at around 0730 the following morning. And we were successfully outside of the EU and the train was allowed to proceed to Šid where Serbian immigration would be performed and another loco change would take place. The former of those went perfectly, the later very much didn’t.

At close to our 0845 departure time our new locomotive roared into life, and then immediately came to a juddering halt. And again, and again. After several false starts we had moved at most 100 meters. Then we waited, waited and waited.

No announcements were made onboard as we ate breakfast at Šid. Rumors from other passengers were that a replacement locomotive was being sent from Belgrade – a quick check of the timetable suggested that that would be at least 2 hours away. The table in our couchette was extended and various games were played. As the morning continued we were allowed outside to stretch our legs.

Being interested in the railway network the conversation quickly turned to the railway infrastructure and services in the area. The Optima Express is the only passenger train to actually cross the border here. Croatian trains start/end just on their side of the border at Tovarnik. And Serbian trains do the same at their side of the border here in Šid. Leaving a roughly 4.5 mile gap in regular passenger services. In spite of the electrified mainline already existing and several cross border freight trains – some of which passed us while we were sitting stationary. It was also annoying that there was no technical reason for the locomotive switch – the working Croatian locomotive could continue to Serbia. In fact both train companies even use the same type of locomotive! But a lack of cooperation between Croatia and Serbia mean a switch is required here.

At some point a nearly brand new modern Stadler Flirt multiple unit arrived opposite us, and would sit in Šid for several hours before operating an all stations stopping train to Belgrade at 1210. With one of the two tracks from here into the rest of Serbia currently out of use we knew we would be stuck behind it if things didn’t get a move on.

1210 came and went with still no sign of the replacement locomotive. And bang on schedule the domestic Serbian train left. Around 3.5 hours had since we should have left Šid and we were still there. And thoughts were turning to lunch – having made no progress since breakfast.

But fortunately it was not too long after it has disappeared out of view that another train could be seen head back towards down the same track – could it finally be!

It was the replacement locomotive! And after some quick coupling it began towing us and the broken locomotive deep into Serbia. A round of applause breaking out as we left just after 1300 with a delay currently at a tad over 4 hours. But it was so good to finally have the wind blowing through the open windows with the carriages having been sat in the sun for the last several hours. As we finally began to make our way towards Belgrade!

Though good to be on the move our speed is much lower since entering Serbia – though it would get worse! The line from Šid to Belgrade is not in a good shape. One of the two tracks has been essentially abandoned and overgrown. Many of the level crossings on the line were broken necessitating a slow down. Though on the positives for the final run into Belgrade took place on a short section of Serbia’s relatively new high speed line linking Belgrade with Novi Sad. It would be the last sense of serious speed we would get for the rest of the trip and it afforded some nice views of Belgrade. Though there would be another wait at Belgrade Central to allow the broken down locomotive still being towed to be detached here for maintenance.

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Around 1500 we leave Belgrade – with the delay now just shy of 5 hours.

From here it would be a slow ride South through Serbia towards the Bulgarian border. The next major city we would reach would be Niš – the third largest city in Serbia. The poor railway network means that the journey is scheduled to take 5 hours and 40 minutes. Long distance buses are scheduled to take 3 hours and 20 minutes. Even though we had a good run with minimal stops it actually took about 6.5 hours. By coincidence we were actually passing at about the same time and just in front of an intercity train. So we did get to watch passengers emerge from station buildings on hearing the train approach and watch in panic as we didn’t stop. But the line was fairly rural with lots of forests, farmland and small towns & villages. And we took some time during this to stop by the onboard restaurant carriage. It serves some food and drinks made onboard and features both a smoking and non-smoking section. Cash payment only! You can get free hot water if you want to do things like make your own noodles/pasta.

As the train passed through the scenic valley next to the village of Braljina we enjoyed what last little bit of the daylight there was. The railway line here is very curvy following tightly along the river valley. At least we could still see a bit of it but sure it would be even prettier in the full light of day.

We reached Niš at around 2145. About 6 hours later than scheduled. Here we would need another locomotive change. The just over 50 miles from here to the Bulgarian border is amazingly the only part of the route that is not electrified. And sadly no longer has any other regular passenger trains. We would therefore need to be switched to a diesel locomotive and as we approached Crveni Krst railway station in the city’s suburbs a Serbian Railways JŽ series 666 was ready waiting for us. 3 of these were built for the then Yugoslavian Railways in order to haul Tito’s Blue Train (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tito%27s_Blue_Train) that the Yugoslav president used to travel both in and beyond Yugoslavia. And we had number 666-001 doing the honours this evening. While this was happening there was another opportunity for a quick stretching of legs before turning in for the night.

And pretty shortly after leaving we decided to settle in for the night.

The second night onboard and Bulgaria

This night was noticeably less comfortable than the first. Even though we were moving at a much slower speed then through Slovenia & Croatia the track was in much worse condition leading to more noise and rocking onboard. And we were also awoken for the border crossing at Dimitrovgrad. Passports were collected about 30 minutes before we reached the border and not returned until we had completed the Bulgarian immigration having re-entered back into the EU. At Dimitrovgrad we switched back to a Bulgarian Electric locomotive and we were reminded that – until a few years ago – Dimitrovgrad had international trains to Bulgaria. But no domestic trains within Serbia.

We awoke stationary at Vakarel around 0930 in the morning. We should have arrived in Edrine 3 hours ago. But we were still around 150 miles from the border.

And sadly we would remain stationary for much of the remainder of the trip and continued to lose yet more time through Bulgaria. The double track railway was undergoing maintenance with only 1 track in operation. As we were running late we had missed our assigned path and therefore were stuck waiting for whatever space was left. So there were several stationary waits of around 30-60 minutes punctuated by following an all stations stopping train. But at least there were some signs of the new railway line with the occasional new bridge pylons and tunnel visible. Though there is clearly a long way still to go.

This morning we decided to spend most of the day in the restaurant carriage. You don’t have to be actively eating. Conversation quickly turned to when we might arrive into Edrine. Not a single announcement had been made on the train during the trip – though staff were answering questions – but some people were already gathering their things unaware the train was still several hours from its destination. “Never again” said one passenger!

For us conversation also began to turn to if we would make our connection in Edrine. We should have arrived at 0603. At the time of our trip 2 TCDD trains a day run from their to Istanbul – one at 0850 and another at 1715. We thought we were playing it safe with the later one aware of Optima Express’s reputation of arriving late. But one group we spoke to onboard had already missed the morning train.

Around midday after another hour long stop we decided that we were now not going to make it. Though if there was a silver lining at least there was plenty of time to find an alternative! And a plan was concocted of getting a bus from Edirne to Istanbul. These run more frequently and are a lot quicker and run later in the day. The train from Edirne to Istanbul is scheduled to take 5 hours and 40 minutes. The fast buses take 3 and a half hours. But still with no idea when we would arrive we decided to hold off booking tickets and continued playing games in the restaurant carriage and enjoy the Bulgarian landscape pass by as we crept ever closer to Turkey.

Entering Turkey

And eventually we reached the Bulgarian border checkpoint at Svilengrad. The boarder felt more modern and controlled with lots of barbed wire and cameras as we approached. Unlike earlier with Serbia there is a regular passenger train crossing the border here. But as it is the overnight sleeper service from Turkey to Sofia (and in the summer Bucharest) we were significantly more awake than most passengers would normally be! But still the Bulgarian exit check was dealt with promptly, there was another opportunity for a quick walk on the platform and around 1600 we left and made our way into Turkey. With a set of large flags on the border we were (relatively) rapidly moving towards.

The border checkpoint into Turkey was different to all the others. At Kapikule you need to get off the train and join a queue in a building on the platform. It is there that the passport checks take place and immigration staff do not board the train. We were allowed to leave all luggage on the train. Once that was dealt with there was time to visit a duty free shop alongside some stalls on the platform selling a mixture of snacks/drinks/alcohol/cigarettes. Though unlikely we did try and ask if the evening train from Edrine was delayed but no one knew anything. And as 1730 rolled around the final TCDD (Turkish railways) locomotive was attached to the train we assumed we had missed it. We should have been in Edrine 11 and a half hours ago. And we were not quite there yet!

As we pulled away spirits were high and it was unambiguous that we much be nearly there. But still the last section was a slow crawl, through a lot of south eastern Bulgaria we had been approaching 90-100 km/h (when we were moving). But now we had entered Turkey speeds were at a more pedestrian 30 km/h. Though on this side of the border the currently under construction high speed line looked to be in much greater nick. We could see some work being done but it was looking very good!

Arrival and continuation to Istanbul

As we finally approached Edrine it was time to get everything packed. We ultimately arrived at *drum roll* 1825! So with a delay of 12 hours and 20 minutes. And the connection to Istanbul having long left.

We were keen to make an a bus at 1930 from Edirne bus station, though there were later buses this one will still get us to Istanbul at a reasonable hour meaning we could still get public transport to our hotel. As the train pulled in it was a small shock to see people alighting both onto the platform side and onto the non-platform side. We followed the majority onto the platform and immediately realised that was a mistake. The ongoing work to build a new high speed line are also involving a rebuild of Edrine station and having got off we found the footbridge still in a state I would best describe as not yet built and a check of the maps confirmed we were stuck on the wrong side. A bus was taking passengers round to the main station building but in a rush and with it already having a line we decided to walk instead.

There was still much to do – as is common in Turkey Edirne bus station isn’t in the city center. But actually located out by the highway junction around 3 miles away. So we had to walk around 15 minutes to a local bus stop for a city bus out there. Fortunately one arrived almost immediately and we could pay with our bank cards (Mastercard only – not Visa).

The driver out to the bus station was going at quite a pace with lots of turns making it a bit of a rough ride! Not helped by us attempting to buy long distance bus tickets online. And failing miserably – every website was refusing to issue tickets for one reason for another. After eventually finding one which seemed to work every bank card was failing. Though at that point we were nearly there and may as well buy them at the ticket office.

It was a tad after 1900 when we got to the bus station. And half an hour should be plenty of time? Though things went wrong pretty quickly as there was no one at the ticket desk. Though while working out what to do about that a member of staff appeared. After asking for all our passports (and a Turkish phone number which we did not have) and spending several minutes typing in our details it came time to pay. And though they had a card reader it wouldn’t work. And with no cash machine in the bus station we were luckily sent to exchange the cash Euros we did have at the office of another bus company. And on returning it was back to square one as the computer had timed out. So time to retype everything in!

20 minutes later we had our tickets. The staff member at the ticket office told us it was already parked up on stand and it was!

The bus ride itself was comfortable – the seats were in a 2+1 layout so wider then normal. Snacks and drinks were provided at various points throughout the journey. There were entertainment screens and USB sockets but neither worked. There was a rest stop. Much of the journey was spent having a nap – though we were jolted awake at one point reversing against the flow of traffic on the highway!

But we ultimately made it to Istanbul bus station, a metro ride to our hotel and had a great time in Turkey! There is more information on train travel within Turkey at: https://interrailwiki.eu/turkey/

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Some general practical information for riding Optima Express

There were some other quick things that we wanted to mention incase anyone else finds it useful if they are going to take the train:

• There were WiFi and electrical sockets (2 standard mains sockets and 4 USB A). All of which worked throughout the trip. The WiFi was on the slow side but very much appreciated throughout the trip and was fine for browsing web pages. Phone signal was good throughout but be aware of roaming fees when not in the EU.
• The bedding was all good quality and the couchettes clean and comfortable. The toilets were kept in an impressively good condition as well – staff were checking and attending to them regularly.
• The restaurant carriage is cash only and only takes Euros. It serves a small selection of food and drinks. They seemed to have a large stock and essentially all items were still available at the end of our trip even with the long delay. The menu is included below.
• Though that said definitely stock up on snacks and water before boarding. The temperature was fine on our trip in May. But in the heat of summer it is going to be uncomfortable.
• There is lots of space in the compartment for items under the bottom couchette and over the aisle. There is a table in the couchette which you can set up.
• There was plenty of availability on the day for seats on trains and buses. If you need to head out to the bus station use: https://moovitapp.com/index/en/public_transit-Edirne-6090 to check the times and routes of local buses out there. They run frequently but do not appear in Google Maps. The bus station is “Edirne Şehirlerarası Otobüs Terminali”. You can pay with Mastercard on the city bus.
• You can use: https://www.obilet.com/en to check the times of long distance buses from Edirne to Istanbul. Bus unless you have a Turkish phone number/bank card/ID are unlikely to be able to buy tickets online.
• There is no need to arrive 3 hours before if you don’t have a car. We don’t know exactly when boarding would have been refused but the “check in” process took less than 10 minutes. We arrived just after 1900 for a 2132 scheduled departure and that was no problem at all. We could board the train from around 2050.